HIROBO SCEADU MANUAL PDF

How to start? With the assembly of the FZ-IV head completed, the next step will be setting up the linkage rod length. Please note that the Evo manual suggest using the lower hole on the main mast. Sceadu manual recommends using the upper hole. Another note is that the pitch rod should consist of a piece short and fat rod end and a piece of long and thin rod end. If the pitch rod uses 2 pieces of fat and short rod end, it will cause binding and drastically reduce the collective pitch range.

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How to start? With the assembly of the FZ-IV head completed, the next step will be setting up the linkage rod length. Please note that the Evo manual suggest using the lower hole on the main mast. Sceadu manual recommends using the upper hole. Another note is that the pitch rod should consist of a piece short and fat rod end and a piece of long and thin rod end. If the pitch rod uses 2 pieces of fat and short rod end, it will cause binding and drastically reduce the collective pitch range.

Use a piece of fat and short rod end for the top part and a piece of thin and long rod end for the bottom part. The programming settings in the transmitter required only 1 change. Next, I rotate the FZ-IV rotorhead with extreme cyclic and collective pitch input to check for binding. I'm glad that there is no binding. Note the bigger stabiliser control arm. The bottom view of the FZ-IV head. I have replaced the radius block with the metal one because I have broke the plastic one when I was assembling the rotor head.

I'm happy that the upgrade is finally completed. I encountered some problems with the linkage rod length but I managed to solve it. I have put the mixing arm position at the inner hole on the see saw because I wanted to see how "mobile" this new rotor head is.

I started off with normal mode and hovered the heli with the head speed at rpm. I did some trimmings. As I am using the "high mobility" setting, I expected the heli to feel sensitive.

I am glad that with these settings, the FZ-IV feels stable. Then a sudden gust of cross wind came! Grinning cheek to cheek, the Sceadu just sits happily in a hover, and required only very minimial corrections.

The feel is very close to the bigger Freya that my flying buddies have. I proceed on to trim the heli in idle up 1 and idle up 2 settings. I'm running rpm for idle up 1 and rpm for idle up 2 because I'm using the TT wooden blades and they are rated up to rpm.

I took a deep breath and put the Sceadu into forward flight. She goes up straight into the air and then turn around with a stall turn. Flying into fast forward flight, I put her into a loop.

Then another stall turn and I put her into a roll. I exclaimed to my flying buddyies "Look at how she rolls! Like an arrow! I like this type of response because I prefer to fly freestyle patterns.

Then I ask my flying buddies to check if there was any flutter while I put the Sceadu into a series of descents. I did some high speed and low speed descents and I'm happy that my flying buddies reported that there was no flutter and the blades made the overall response of the heli much "crisp". The TT woodies can flex when the heli undergoes hard flying. The FRP blades are much stiffer and do not flex much. Hence the feel is more "crisp". This is a Sceadu with an upgraded rotor head and it already flies very well.

The complete Evo kit contains more upgrades that make the heli flies even better. So, should you upgrade now? Then do a rotor head upgrade.

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Hirobo Shuttle Sceadu Evolution Manuals

Hirobo Sceadu. Known as the Shuttle Sceadu, it was originally intended to replace the shuttle and thus was available in both '30' and '50' sizes. However demand for the shuttle was such that the two ended up running concurrently though the Sceadu was mostly bought in the '50' size. Sceadu upgrades. EVO 50 early version.

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